I write this from Kathmandu. We arrived yesterday via a helicopter rescue from the Khumbu glacier just below Everest base camp.
To fully understand why it is I am here and where I just came from… at 16,500 foot elevation there is nothing. Rock, ice and yaks. The yaks are everywhere and the Sherpa use the dung as fuel for their fires. The air is permeated with the smoke and dust from this fuel source. We wear cloths over our nose and mouth and I believe hacking, spewing and nose picking to be the number one pastime in Nepal.
Somewhere along the climb I experienced a sharp pain in my lower right side. True to form I ignored it. A few days later it was more pronounced so I took a pain pill. Upon reaching 16,500 it was difficult to stand up and now we became concerned. We hiked to the village of Penboche to seek the advice of the Himalayan rescue mission where a doctor diagnosed me with possible appendicitis and recommended immediate rescue from the mountain. The remoteness of the region, and the lack of sanitation or any medical facilities other than a hut surrounded by yak, made this not the best place to find oneself with appendicitis. A helicopter was dispatched and flew me to Kathmandu and an awaiting ambulance. I spent the last 24 hours in the Kathmandu hospital on an IV under the care of a Pakistani surgeon who was more than willing to operate. I am now “out” of the hospital and will be returning to the US as soon as I am “released” from the hospital. They have kept my passport, visa and Blue Cross and Blue Shield card (not sure why but I think they think I am a US official)
I have to admit I would rather climb Everest backwards and blindfolded than go through what I just experienced the last 24 hours. I found the hospital frightening to say the least. Not speaking Nepalese or Hindi (as this was a Hindu hospital to which I was taken) and not knowing what I was being administered nor what they wanted to do was extreme.
I am now happily at a cyber cafe where the Internet is a mere 25 rupees per hour compared to the 30 per minute at 14,000 feet, and am awaiting my trip back to the US. Oh yea, after I “get released” from the hospital.
The good news!!! Brooke and I return August 24 to climb Cho Oyu. I am even leaving all my climbing gear here – although I am taking my appendix home with me. Guess we were supposed to climb that mountain after all!
As always, the universe truly does provide, and I am ever so grateful that I have once again been so very well provided for. The Khumbu Valley is magic and the Sherpa who live there are an amazing, warm and wonderful people. I can’t wait to be with them again.
To Dawa Tenzing my high altitude Sherpa, Dawa Gelising Sherpa our base camp and overall project manager, Nema Sherpa, along with the 20 other Sherpa… you took incredible care of me and I know you will continue to see me through my mission. I look forward to returning to you in August to experience Cho Oyu and beyond.
On April 24th I celebrated my birthday. Nothing unusual about this annual event except that the Buddhist religion does not recognise birthdays, so this is something very unfamiliar to our Sherpa. True to form, Dawa baked me a chocolate cake (remember no electricity, no oven), but there it was a chocolate cake complete with a candle and a huge bottle of Johnny Walker Red!!! My very best birthday yet with all these Sherpas happily singing something that kind of sort of sounded like “happy birthday to you.”
Another lesson learned was what it really means to be a climber in some of the remotest places in the world. It’s never the summit that counts – ultimately, it is how you come out after a dangerous and possibly life threatening situation.
Happy Birthday to me… Cho Oyu, I’m ready for you!
Climb On!
Wendy
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