Posts Tagged 'RMI'

RMI Team is almost there!

May 24, 2010 – 4:05 p.m. PST / 5:20 a.m. UTC
26,000 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

Just received a radio call from Seth reporting he is approximately 10 minutes below South Summit. Dave and crew are just a bit behind. Little wind, some high clouds in and out, but overall great conditions.

At the Balcony

May 24, 2010 – 2:15 p.m. PST / 2:56 a.m. UTC
26,000 ft.

Mark Tucker at Basecamp:

All teams are at the Balcony changing oxygen bottles. The weather report remains calm winds and clear skies. The next check-in should be in approximately 2 – 3 hours, the South Summit, where I should be able to speak with the team directly.

Going For It!

May 24, 2010 – 9:30 a.m. PST / 10:15 p.m. UTC
26,000 ft.

We have not been purposely holding out till the bitter end, I promise. You all deserve the final summit push. So lets bring it to you today and tonight. We sure hope that the old adage,” good things come to those who wait”, comes true.

Tough call last night holding back the summit push, always a tricky situation, but it’s looking very promising tonight. Snowed pretty much all day, but now……… not a cloud in the sky, and what a moon! Dave reports a little windy at the Col right now.

I can’t guarantee the team will summit, but there is a group of men at the South Col tonight that have done just about all that is possible to have a shot at the top.
I can guarantee…. this RMI group will give Mount Everest the respect she deserves, and will not push harder than seems reasonable.
It’s all relative when you subject yourself to some of the most extreme conditions on Earth.

With the support we have from our incredible Sherpa staff, and the wealth of experience our guides bring to this expedition.

No worries mate.

I may even get a few winks in between the dispatches I plan to send throughout the night.

Cheers,
Mark Tucker

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Resting at Basecamp

The latest from Casey Grom with RMI…

April 20, 2010
17,575 ft.

It’s week three and all is well here at Everest Basecamp. Some of the team members have climbed through the icefall and camped at Camp One. A few of us have been fighting colds and coughs, but plan on heading up hill in just a few days. Being under the weather here is a big difference from being under the weather back home. First, it takes a lot longer to heal at 17,500′. Second, failing to take it easy when our bodies need it could lead to feeling worse or needing to descend to a lower altitude to recover.

Everyone has been doing a good job of taking it easy though. There has been plenty of hot showers, doing laundry, watching movies, and too many card games to count. The weather seems to be stable with crystal clear skies in the morning to cloudy in the afternoon with light snowfall. Looking forward to walking up hill soon and feeling better.

Casey

PS – Rob Suero would like to wish happy birthday to his daughter. Happy Birthday!

Anticipation at Basecamp

RMI update from team lead, Dave Hahn!

April 18, 2010
17,575 ft.

Plenty of anticipation in the RMI Everest camp today. Casey and Chad took Scott and Rob up partway through the Icefall early this morning on their practice run. Michael, Leif, Wendy, Seth and myself took things easy with a rest day. Our Sherpa team had the day off as well. Everybody is getting set to move up the hill. Leif, Michael and I will get an early start into the Khumbu tomorrow and intend to be at Camp One for the next three nights. Tendi will head up to Camp Two (ABC) with the Sherpa team, while the rest of the team have plans for C1 in the next few days. Mark Tucker helped the team pack food and gear for this first “rotation” up the hill.

The day followed what seems to be a regular pattern now with clear and calm skies in the morning giving way to cloud and light snow in the afternoon. It pays to get showers and washing done early, which we did today. We are used to seeing a steady trickle of visitors and friends from neighboring expeditions and it is normal to try to coax the more gullible of these into some high stakes card game. We still run out of the tents to check on any great noise and today were rewarded with close-up views of a great avalanche off 25,000 ft Nuptse, just across the glacier.

Dave Hahn

Gallery of Photos from RMI

Enjoy this sampling of photos from RMI, Wendy’s guide company:

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Acclimatization Hikes

RMI Dispatch from Dave Hahn…

April 13, 2010
17,575 ft.

A three a.m. snowstorm blew through just as our Sherpa team was trying to decide whether to go ahead with a carry to Camp One. Tendi and the boys wisely decided to give it a miss. Ultimately, it was only two inches, but it changed the basecamp scenery immensely. Leif Whittaker and I took an easy rest day while Chad, Casey and Seth took Scott, Rob and Wendy on acclimatization hikes. Several of the team went all the way up to Pumori Camp One for a little altitude and a lot of views into the Western Cwm.

The big event of our day was Jeff Martin’s planned departure for home. He has worked good and hard for a week now (on top of several months, pre-trip) to get our logistics off on the right foot, but now he is needed back on Mount Rainier. We said goodbye to him with a lively, latenight game of Texas Hold ‘Em and a good and hearty breakfast.

Now that most teams have arrived, we were entertained with a steady stream of old friends passing through and telling their stories of travels and treks over tea. We’ll continue our training for the icefall tomorrow.

Dave Hahn

Hello from Everest Base Camp!

The latest RMI Dispatch from Wendy’s Guide, Seth Waterfall…

April 9, 2010
17,575 ft.

This is Seth saying hello from Everest Base Camp!

This is the team’s second full day at base camp and we’re steadily getting our communications gear online. We’ve got a large solar array and we are able to power all of our communication equipment completely by the sun. As you can imagine, though, getting several computers up and running for email access is not a trivial task at 17,500 feet in the heart of the Himalaya. That said, all of the planning and hard work that my boss, Jeff Martin, and our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, have put in is paying off and we’ll all be able to email and call our families and friends shortly.

It’s not all about the modern conveniences here though. We’ve also been busy becoming a part of the base camp community. Last night we paid a visit to the Icefall Doctors and the Himalayan Rescue Association. RMI and First Ascent have made generous clothing and gear donations to the Icefall Doctors this season and last. Last night we dropped off new climbing clothes for ‘the docs’. Those guys work extremely hard at establishing and maintaining the fixed ropes and ladders through the icefall so that the expeditions can focus on the upper parts of the mountain. It was great to be able to show our appreciation by giving them brand new climbing gear.

After visiting the Icefall Doctors we dropped by the HRA to visit the medical doctors at base camp. We had a few clothing items from First Ascent to share with them as well. The HRA is a full medical clinic that is open to anyone here at base camp. This allows expeditions to pool their money to fund the clinic as opposed to each expedition brining their own doctors. The doctors at the clinic usually conduct some kind of research and this year they are working on treatments for the notorious ‘Khumbu Cough’. It’s nice to know that there is work being done on a treatment for the painful cough; I just hope that no one in our expedition becomes part of the study.

We’ve also started to think about heading up the mountain. Today we had our Puja. This ceremony involves a blessing by a Buddhist Lama and the raising of our Puja Pole. It is also a big party and folks from around base camp dropped by to help us celebrate. Our camp is now laced with prayer flags and we have all been blessed and are now free to move up the mountain. This is most important for our Sherpa team as they do not enter the icefall until after the ceremony. Now that we’ve had our Puja we will spend several days practicing for the icefall and upping our acclimatization. Then we’ll be ready to start our first rotations up into the Western Cwm. Wish us luck!

Seth

The full moon rises behind the serrated ridge of Lhotse and illuminates the Khumbu Icefall and Basecamp

The full moon rises behind the serrated ridge of Lhotse and illuminates the Khumbu Icefall and Basecamp

Settling in at Base Camp

The latest RMI team dispatch from Dave Hahn…

April 8, 2010
17,575 ft.

Namaste from Everest Basecamp.

Our first full day at Mount Everest began with saying goodbye to Scott’s Dad, Jeff. As planned, he headed down valley this morning just after a sumptuous breakfast in our dining tent. The team enjoyed mild temperatures and an “easy” day resting and getting organized at 17,500 ft above sea level. We met for a strategy session in which we discussed plans for first week of the climb as well as for “big picture” plans for the how the rest of the climb might play out. Jeff Martin and Mark Tucker worked hard to buff out our electrical and communications systems (we rely largely on solar energy, satelite link-ups and handheld radios in these areas). Importantly, we gathered the entire team so that the American climbers could get to know the Nepali team members and vice versa. Tendi Sherpa and Lama Babu -along with our great chef Kumar- facillitated the introductions. We spent the afternoon resting and chatting. We intend to meet with the famous and hard-working “Icefall Doctors” who are currently putting in the climbing route through the Khumbu, and later we’ll tour the Himalayan Rescue Association’s basecamp clinic and meet the medical doctors. It seems abnormally hot and dry for early April, and each afternoon we’ve seen the air get murky with forest fire smoke from somewhere down valley. A quiet day has been punctuated by giant ice avalanches off the surrounding glaciers… keeping things interesting.

Dave Hahn


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About Wendy Booker

In June of 1998, this 55 year old mother of three was diagnosed with relapsing-remitting MS after experiencing balance problems, blurred vision and numbness on her left side. When first diagnosed, Wendy was devastated. But it took very little time for her to transform anguish into inspiration. She immediately turned her hobby of casual running into a continuous pursuit and has now completed nine marathons.

Mountain climbing became the next conquest. Wendy learned about a team of mountain climbers with Multiple Sclerosis who were attempting to climb Mt. McKinley (Denali) in Alaska. With no previous climbing experience, she dedicated a year to hard training and set off with them in 2002. Although weather conditions prohibited the team from completing, Wendy attempted the summit again in 2004 on her own and she succeeded!

The feeling of accomplishment she experienced propelled her next aspiration: to climb the highest mountain on each continent. Just five years later, Wendy Booker has successfully reached the top of six of The Seven Summits – Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. McKinley, Mt. Elbrus, Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. Vinson Massif and Mt. Kosciuszko. Mt. Everest, the highest mountain on earth, still awaits for 2010.